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In the shadow of castles

Following signs for Alès , stop off in the village of Montaren. This is a circular village built around its castle and Saracen Tower. It's worth taking a look at the hamlet of Saint Médiers situated at the foot of a grassy hill. From here, you can return on foot or by car via the hamlet of Labaume, nestled in the heart of the valley. Take the D136 to Serviers, which is overlooked by a promontory and castle. Follow signs for Alès and turn right on the D116 towards Aigaliers. This village is the centre of a community of 10 hamlets and sits on the hillside, overlooked by the remains of a feudal castle. You can visit the ruins and see the « oubliettes », the Saracen wall and the washhouse. Take the D715 through Gattigues (Roman church) and la Bruyerette. Then take the D136, followed by the D982. It is worth stopping off at Aureilhac (a hamlet attached to Arpaillargues - where we will go next), an ancient fortified, circular village. The château at Arpaillargues, an elegant 18th century building, belonged to the Agoult family. Here, many famous people of the time were entertained. Pick up signs for Uzès, stopping off at the Musée du Train et du Jouet and the Musée 1900, which have been set up inside an old olive oil mill.

A château unlike any other
Now a country house hotel, the Château d'Arpaillargues belonged to the Agoult family for 160 years. The most famous of its members, Charles, a brilliant colonel in Napoleon's army, was born there. His wife, Marie de Flavigny, a well-known literary personality of the time, saw the château only once, in 1828, 20 years after it had been sold.